Travels to the Edge

‘One step ahead . . . Stay in motion, keep an open mind.’ I needed to today. I had fallen a little behind in days and distance - I made it up okay, through a gradual, mostly roadside, shuffle. It was fine. In the early morning hours, I closed the door to the albergue, in the rain - what a cool start to the day. Shall I walk the road or follow the yellow arrows? To be honest - I have been spooked by my Levante experience - official paths can be so unpredictable - I didn’t want to risk twisting an ankle or falling into a ditch in the dark - so I took the road. The pre-dawn hours were magical - gentle drizzle, hardly a car. The sun rose over my right shoulder. I had breakfast at Mombuey. I felt safe in the presence of the Civil Guard. They ordered a tortilla from scratch while my toast was burnt. Oh well, I suppose I am an alien. The rest of the breakfast was wonderful. I had been light on food over the last day or two so it set me up for a big walking day. Gracias El Porvenir Bar! The 12...

Early rising, occasional torch, awakening dawn and cool green morning scenery - all done by 2pm. Not all Camino days are like this.  Coffee, filtered last night and microwaved this morning, was breakfast. It was enough. Last night, I shared the albergue with Andrea from Asturias. We made the best of what we had and what was in the albergue pantry. No open bars or nearby grocery stores late yesterday. Amazing what you can do with what little you have sometimes. The lights were on, but no one (except probably Jesus and Santiago) was home at the local church when I walked out. Hardly a sound as I glanced between the path, my phone light and navigation, and wayside arrows. I was floating in the predawn, by plantation  forests  and mirror reflections . . . Sunrise over cornfields. I laugh and think that . . . this is Hispania - a. Wildflowers by the roadside.  Then I took a wrong turn and (almost) got lost.  The paths went everywhere. All I could do was head uphill a...

Well not actually walking ‘on sunshine’ - but ‘in sunshine’. This is going to be a factor over coming days. With temperatures in the 30s , it is just too hot to walk after lunch. I am taking the weather with me again.  Not a cloud to be seen. I noticed they have put a high velocity rail line across the path that I used last time.  That’s progress. Vineyards are timeless, in contrast. I stopped for lunch on the bridge below the town. I am  experimenting on ways of drying socks. I have enough water, I am carrying light food - nuts and dried fruits. All set for the last assault. What a welcome shelter - sorry, I did not  see it five minutes earlier. I know it was hot, and I was a little stressed but I mean, really - stone markers should be clearer than this. The path has been littered with them. Grrrr! Destination arrival around 2pm. Siesta time - just managed to buy water before the shops closed. The Tera River valley is beautiful - tonight’s village is one of many on ...

Jose is one of the best hospitaleros on the Camino - it was wonderful to see him again. He has run the albergue in Tabara for years - along traditional lines with communal meals and his beautiful reflections on the meaning and history of the Way. Tabara was the destination this morning. I needed to choose the path to Ourense - the alternative to Astorga would take me to the Camino Frances - appealing, since Astorga has nice chocolate, but Tabara offered the chance to catch up with Jose and reconnect. Now I know I almost promised no more shots like this, but this is different. Look closely. There is another person up there. I am not alone. I am now on the Camino Sanabres to Santiago. Today’s walk took me to some beautiful places. Even some rock climbing at times. Back on the high plateau. And shaded gullies. The paths were straight and mostly direct. This was important because the temperature was rising. Lunch was a chance to reset, dry socks, and press on. The approach to Tabara was gr...