Posts

Castro Urdiales to Logrono - The French (Re)connection

Image
Time to say goodbye to the seascapes of the Camino del Norte and reconnect with the Camino Frances. Logrono was the ideal point, and the cosy Winederful Hostel was the perfect place to stay. Castro Urdiales was clear and silent in my predawn walk to the bus station. Breakfast on the way was delicious. Farewell beach! The bus trip retraced my footsteps. Looking out going the other way felt satisfying. By lunchtime I had reached Logrono. Located in the heart of the Rioja region, there are monuments to wine and wine-makers. As well as the usual stuff. Sancho was impressed!. There is a sophisticated mix of modern and classic architecture.  Along with vibrant artistic and cultural elements, especially for devotees of St Dominic and miraculous chickens (see Chat GPT for more detail - if you are’game’). There are Michelin restaurants, Guitalele was in awe at the size of their wine bottles. Along with the scenic bridges and Beatle-free zebra crossings.  The only drawback was the weath...

Portugalete to Castro Urdiales - Rapture, rigours and relaxation

Image
‘The sun also rises’ - Hemingway’s main character in this book, Jake Barnes put it so well: ‘You can’t get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.’ This walk proved it. It had everything, and at the end, I was still beside myself - relieved, somewhat exhausted, satisfied and even joyful. The initial path from Portugalete was paved with tar and cement, freeway vistas and to my bewilderment, a tribute to cyclists. At least the route was reasonably flat and I made good progress. Other peregrinos appeared - a school group with a guiding teacher. I reached the beach at La Arena and felt I was back on the Camino del Norte. The coastal vistas are inspiring - I glimpsed Castro Urdiales in the distance. There is a donkey on the cliff edge - oceanside!  And around the corner, two cows in close conversation - ‘Come on Thelma, let’s jump . . No Louise …Why not? … I can’t swim’. Just like Butch and Sundance. Enter at your own risk!  I did, and emerged to this. Which way to ...

Bilbao to Portugalete- Basque-ing in Spanish …

Image
Bilbao came alive last night! Thousands packed the central park to support Spain in the World Cup Final against one of its former colonies ‘ Don’t cry for me Argentina’  that’s for sure. Everyone - well except for the small minority of brave Argentine expats and rogue bands Basque separatists -  had an absolute ball, me included! Later in the local bar next to my hostel, I met a bunch of new best friends from all over the world - I faked it big time -  about my appreciation of the  nuances of red and yellow cards held aloft like performance scores in a Shakespearean tragedy where actors reel in agony at the mere prospect of being interfered with. Thankfully everyone went home, joyful. My day started much earlier - Departing Ireland and landing back in Spain. It felt good to be back in Iberia. Customs were friendly and the airport bus was free. Locals queued at liquor outlets for the night ahead. I went on a pre-game excursion in search of a wine bar. On the way I pas...