Travels to the Edge

 My stopover in Madrid was a chance to catch up with old friends. Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. It was a welcome interlude from the pilgrim world. On my way out of Leon the other morning, the street to the station was deserted except for me and Antoni Gaudi. He invited me to a game of chess. He won - and wished me a buen camino! The trains in Spain go as fast as planes; and before too long I was relaxing in the Plaza Major in Madrid. Madrid was bustling with workers, holiday makers and fans of Pope Leo XIV who is expected tomorrow. After a breakfast of unfrozen orange juice I walked the sunny hills of Madrid . . . (without glimpsing Peter Sarsted - where did he go to, my lovely 🎵) Security - old and new was gearing up for the papal visit  Locals and visitors alike queued to make a wish I put in my request for a free ‘access all areas’ pass to next month’s Madrid music festival. If that doesn’t work, I can buy cheese from Mercado San Miguel  Or put in a special request fo...

Our appointment as volunteer hospitaleros is over. Time for succession, drawing breath and travelling on. David and I had a handover dinner of tapas and pizza at the local bar with Manuel and Monika - following the tradition of our induction a little over two weeks ago. We go - feeling satisfied that we helped many pilgrims along their way (around 160 over the time), in the spirit of this translated note. Not all was sweetness and light. This pilgrim for example decided to start cooking and then eating after 10pm lights out. Thankfully such ‘Me first and gimme gimme’ self centredness was rare. David stayed on duty until he had finished. Another pilgrim experienced separation anxiety one night and asked to sleep with his bicycle. Cyclists are such a joy sometimes. Other pilgrims go about their Camino quietly and artistically- painting  And singing and playing  The last night was the busiest. Still we found time to enjoy the cooling evening  Next morning it was time to leav...

‘It’s just a jump to the left, then a step to the right’. Life in Villadangos is simultaneously surprising and routine, and quite insulated like stepping into a time warp. I like it. There’s the laundry and folding sheets routine.  There’s the setting up for breakfast routine. And every so often, the need and opportunity to go to Leon for supplies and a little sightseeing. The cathedral is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. Leon has that delightful combination of the monumental and the boutique. This art gallery specialises in fine sketches.  Down the street, there is plaza with a medieval church and a contemporary restaurant. Let’s do the time warp again! The challenge with the morning bus trips into Leon is getting back for opening time at 2pm. That is the routine. Every group is the same in a pilgrim sort of way; and every group is surprising with different individuals and their stories. Their feedback is (mostly) heart warming, even from those with peculiar sign...