Travels to the Edge

From the welcome registration desk at Albergue de Peregrinos at Villadangos del Paramo, you can see pilgrims slowly come into view. So far today no takers. Yesterday we had people waiting for opening time. There is no telling who or when people show up. Being patient, as well as organised to handle surprises is part of learning to be a hospitalero. It is Day 2, and I am trying my best. The day I arrived I met David from Seville. He and I have been appointed to run the albergue for the next two weeks. We were taken to dinner by the two outgoing hospitaleros - Greg and Daniel from California. It was an ideal orientation - practical ideas, common sense and a shared understanding of peregrino experience. Thank you both! Practical advice besides explaining the overall layout of the place and how it is operating, included how to make the coffee, and set up the dining room. Preparing for breakfast- mixing the cereal  Boiling the eggs - the night before . Ensuring food provisions are adequ...

This bronzed medieval pilgrim fixed to  the pavement outside the Parador Hotel incongruously came to life and said ‘Mike stop hesitating just start walking’  Now the albergue at Villadangos del Paramo, where I am to be a volunteer hospitalero, is 20kms from Leon. I had planned to take public transport.  Most sensible. After all, I had not done much preparation and it was awkward carrying a guitar as well as a regular pack. But why be sensible?  So I stepped out into the early morning, activated the guiding app, found my blue dot and took off. Street walking is much more interesting than sitting on a bus.  Gaudi would agree. His creations need to be enjoyed first hand. When we reached the Parador both Sancho and Guitar suggested we check in. I replied ‘no self respecting pilgrim would ever stay in a place like this’ Martin Sheen take note. After breakfast, it was uphill for several kms. I had thoughts of dropping in on the Baggins’ for a break. We pressed on. Bes...

Today I traveled by train from Barcelona to Leon and .., bought a guitar. Angel, the coordinator of the Villadangos del paramo albergue where I am volunteering told me there were no musical instruments there. So I decided to bring one . After closing the door on the Barcelona Central Garden building, I walked towards the station passing people waiting for their building to open. Imagine working in this Gaudi designed building. The station was busy with people heading in all directions. I joined the queue, The journey took over 8 hours, tedious at times but mostly fine. I enjoyed the changing scenery, including places that I had walked through - such as the Meseta, a high plain between Burgos and Leon. Eventually the train pulled into Leon. The city symbols greeted me. I made my way through the streets .  Towards my albergue for the evening- with its functional yet distinctively non Gaudian features. I checked in. There were only top bunks left in the 4 bed dorm. Oh well!  I as...