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A Coruna - By the Sea

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The coastal port city of A Coruna in Galicia has seen it all - from the arrival of the Celts in centuries BC, to 20th century nationalists during the Spanish Civil War. The Romans built a lighthouse in the first century; it has been remodelled ever since. Julius Caesar dropped by a hundred years or so before that. At the end of 16th century, Maria Pita took her mortally wounded husband’s weapons and continued fighting Francis Drake’s flotilla of would-be invaders and sent them packing.  The plaza major is named after her, and the annual festival in her honour starts this week. A Coruna still trades many of the things that Drake was keen on. It is a vibrant place. The day I arrived there was a surf lifesaving competition.  Beach flags, board paddling, surf swimming . . . I felt at home. I have been swimming a few times; and Mama Mia is opening soon. There is grand architecture,   along with hectares of bleak multi-storey apartments on the outskirts - and engaging laneways ...
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Muxía - Stone & Ocean Sanctuary

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Since the beginning, these stones thrown about by volcanoes have been washed by ocean water, yielding shapes imbued with spiritual significance.  The faithful believe that Our Lady (travelling on a boat) appeared to Santiago here to inspire him to continue evangelising Hispania.  According to legend, he did just that - before returning to Jerusalem where he was subsequently executed. Not long after, his followers put his remains in a boat (different boat to Our Lady’s I presume) and transported them back to Spain, where several hundred years later, they were found in a ‘field of stars’ (campo de estrellas), and hence Santiago de Compostela came to be. Meanwhile the boat that Our Lady sailed on turned to stone, and has lain here ever since. And so Sanctuario da Nosa Senora da Barca (the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat) came to be. The Church has a (supernaturally) nautical vibe. For fans of  The Way, there’s the added bonus of trying to figure out exactly where Martin Sh...
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Finisterre - Sunrise . . . Sunset

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Sunrise and sunset are times for contemplation at Finisterre. Our earthly rotation takes on a distinctive meaning there, as the sun appears and moves across the sky and disappears beneath the western horizon. For millennia, we humans have wondered where it goes, before it ‘rac(es) around to come up behind us again’.  The lighthouse beam marks the transitions between day and night - tag teaming with the sun. Sunny skies and cloudless nights are a blessing on this Costa del Morte - ideal for sunset cruises. Time to bid farewell to the birds from the balcony and head for the harbour. We headed out past colourful iconic vessels.  The ocean was motionless. We passed the stairs where I went swimming and began the concluding walk along the beach. The sun was slowly descending.  The boat rounded the lighthouse - and ocean caves steeped in legend. And before long . . . the sun was going  Going . . . Gone! Another day over - now back to the harbour. A wonderful evening- follow...
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Santiago to Finisterre - Three days on the road

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After three days of walking with cooler mornings that developed too quickly into blazing hot siesta afternoons, I made it to the Cape Finisterre Lighthouse.  Leaving Santiago via the medieval moat and the oldest surviving gate to the city  I was soon following arrows once again. Into the green shaded lanes up and away from the city. Crossing the occasional 12th century bridge,   I stopped for lunch in Negeira and had by a mostly shaded climb  to the wonderfully welcoming Albergue at A Pena run by friends Manuel and Maria I played some music before dinner  Nothing as refreshing as a cold beer after a long walk. Then enjoyed a delicious communal meal, and played some more. Despite my intention to depart with the sunrise I was almost the last to leave - hard to say goodbye I suppose  The next day was difficult, hot with not much shade. I took far less photos due to the fact my phone melted. Finally, after a 30 km shuffle carrying lots of water, I enjoyed an ev...
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