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Arzua to O Pedrouzo - Sharing the path

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The cyclist peregrino is an enigma. Peddling e-assisted or old school Flintstone style, cyclists appear from nowhere in groups (never alone) of two up to twelve. They can part a sea of pilgrims, approaching from behind without ever ringing their bells. As they pass, most kindly offer an encouraging ‘Buen Camino’.  How considerate that they choose to share the way with us when they have the option of designated cycle routes. We wish them a ‘Buen Camino’ too! Last night after signing off, I didn’t go to bed. I went to dinner and had the most delicious Paella Arroz Negro, under the trees. As I went to leave, local musicians and dancers arrived again. Perfect timing all round! Wonderful traditional rhythms and melodies.  Then it was time for bed, as breakfast commenced at 5am - for pilgrimator early birds intent on the 39 km trek to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. I shuffled out closer to 8 am. Stopped into a church . . .  Santiago dreaming on such a summer’s day 🎵 Passing...
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Palas de Rei to Arzua - Stepping into the flow

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Every one of these students was delightful. We wished each other buen camino. These young people bring life - La Vida - to the Camino. Today I stepped into the flow, and was carried along to Arzua. This morning was cool and misty. Thunder happened across the night. Perfect for a long walk if you don’t mind a raindrop or two. The local church offers a pilgrim mass every night. Humanity and spirituality somehow coexist with traditional religious practices- it is a Mystery. I am constantly astounded by the devotion of parish communities of centuries past in building these structures. Why? How? Their legacy is uncertain.   Then it started to rain. Fabulous! I donned my hobbit coat - and walked on 🎵 with hope in my heart - and all of a sudden realised - I will never walk alone.  How fragile we are.  Melide! It’s pulpo time. A seat by the window was just the ticket - I smiled and pointed as Peregrinos shuffled by. Into the forest once again - brothers with matching yellow pack...
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Portomarin to Palas de Rei - Bed race logistics

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Reality sets in - there are pilgrims everywhere. ‘Mike, it is time to adapt. . .’ First, get going early to avoid the herd - and the heat. They went right so I went left - lakeside! Serenity for a while. The alternative routes merged too soon.  Still there are moments of inspiration - I have passed these friends several times over the past few days. We smile and bid each other’Buen Camino’ When surrounded by hundreds of pilgrims, ahead - behind - beside, one’s thoughts inevitably turn to accommodation. Sure there are more places these days but that is little comfort at the end of a long hot walk when you are told ‘sorry we are full’. This has happened to me several times over the last few days. Yesterday, I got the last bed in this Albergue - a top bunk on the top floor (the stairs felt like the final assault on Everest with no Sherpa). Things must change Mike. Book ahead! So I have - All the way to Santiago and then some. Not so much freewheeling. But on balance, it’s worth it for...
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