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Santiago - Sauntering

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‘Silencio por favor’ was the recurrent reminder to peregrinos and touregrinos in preparation for midday mass.  Arrangements were in place - people queued for the crypt where the credulous believe Santiago’s bones lie, while ropes hung to the side ready to swing the botafumeiro - an enormous incense burner designed to fumigate pilgrims from disease and rogue cyclists. God must have a sense of humour. Yesterday in response to my pleas to build understanding, a plague (a collective noun) of cyclists infested the Plaza do Obradoiro. The divide was stark! Arriving pilgrims on one side coming to terms with their Camino, and race conditioned cyclists on the other, comparing carbon fibre tensile strength and Lycra thread counts. Around lunchtime, the plaza and surrounding streets and laneways cleared. Pilgrims could spread out and take pictures and visit the pilgrim office. I enjoyed the best ensalada mixta.  Later I visited the Arume music bar. What you read is what you get - and wha...
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O Pedrouzo to Santiago - Pilgrim Road

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Reaching Santiago de Compostela is not the end. Yes, there is the excitement and satisfaction of arriving. What matters is what we draw from walking the pilgrim road, and carry forward. I thought a lot about that today . . . Beginning with breakfast. No looking back now. Onward through the mist With the scent and sight of eucalyptus all around. Steady streams in the distance  Here comes the sun - and the cyclists . The path side bars were busy. After a short stop, I decided to try another along the way. Sharing the way . . . Sharing acquaintance - I have been seeing these ladies for days. Amazing endurance and genuine. Possibly the toughest tortilla I have ever tasted, served by pilgrim weary surly staff - pity! Reaching Monte do Gozo gave me much, much greater joy! If you look closely, you can see the cathedral from here - the first glimpse for pilgrims over the centuries. They are right, you can! Santiago was there- down the hill. Welcomed by music  There is an inscription o...
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Arzua to O Pedrouzo - Sharing the path

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The cyclist peregrino is an enigma. Peddling e-assisted or old school Flintstone style, cyclists appear from nowhere in groups (never alone) of two up to twelve. They can part a sea of pilgrims, approaching from behind without ever ringing their bells. As they pass, most kindly offer an encouraging ‘Buen Camino’.  How considerate that they choose to share the way with us when they have the option of designated cycle routes. We wish them a ‘Buen Camino’ too! Last night after signing off, I didn’t go to bed. I went to dinner and had the most delicious Paella Arroz Negro, under the trees. As I went to leave, local musicians and dancers arrived again. Perfect timing all round! Wonderful traditional rhythms and melodies.  Then it was time for bed, as breakfast commenced at 5am - for pilgrimator early birds intent on the 39 km trek to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. I shuffled out closer to 8 am. Stopped into a church . . .  Santiago dreaming on such a summer’s day 🎵 Passing...
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