Travels to the Edge

Time for a different perspective - why not go up on the roof. The Cathedral runs tours for dare devils to visit gargoyles at close range.  I watched people come and go from the Plaza de Obradoiro; and had a bird’s eye view of Seminario Major where I sometimes stay. I had a Spanish immersion experience- all the English sessions were booked out. I think l understood the gist. For instance when I looked through the window down to the main altar, I could see the botafumero. The fellas below then fired it up and put on a BBQ.. How nice! ‘I reckon mine is about done, Emilio!’ They keep a spare one in the Cathedral museum. Touring the museum and the roof did give me a more informed impression, plus it was loads of fun spying on people So much so that I included ‘Up on the Roof’ in the set I performed at Arume bar in dedication to the Drifters and pilgrims.   I selected other numbers people might know, that related to what I was seeing in Santiago  ‘Another day in  paradise’...

‘Silencio por favor’ was the recurrent reminder to peregrinos and touregrinos in preparation for midday mass.  Arrangements were in place - people queued for the crypt where the credulous believe Santiago’s bones lie, while ropes hung to the side ready to swing the botafumeiro - an enormous incense burner designed to fumigate pilgrims from disease and rogue cyclists. God must have a sense of humour. Yesterday in response to my pleas to build understanding, a plague (a collective noun) of cyclists infested the Plaza do Obradoiro. The divide was stark! Arriving pilgrims on one side coming to terms with their Camino, and race conditioned cyclists on the other, comparing carbon fibre tensile strength and Lycra thread counts. Around lunchtime, the plaza and surrounding streets and laneways cleared. Pilgrims could spread out and take pictures and visit the pilgrim office. I enjoyed the best ensalada mixta.  Later I visited the Arume music bar. What you read is what you get - and wha...

Reaching Santiago de Compostela is not the end. Yes, there is the excitement and satisfaction of arriving. What matters is what we draw from walking the pilgrim road, and carry forward. I thought a lot about that today . . . Beginning with breakfast. No looking back now. Onward through the mist With the scent and sight of eucalyptus all around. Steady streams in the distance  Here comes the sun - and the cyclists . The path side bars were busy. After a short stop, I decided to try another along the way. Sharing the way . . . Sharing acquaintance - I have been seeing these ladies for days. Amazing endurance and genuine. Possibly the toughest tortilla I have ever tasted, served by pilgrim weary surly staff - pity! Reaching Monte do Gozo gave me much, much greater joy! If you look closely, you can see the cathedral from here - the first glimpse for pilgrims over the centuries. They are right, you can! Santiago was there- down the hill. Welcomed by music  There is an inscription o...