Travels to the Edge

Our appointment as volunteer hospitaleros is over. Time for succession, drawing breath and travelling on. David and I had a handover dinner of tapas and pizza at the local bar with Manuel and Monika - following the tradition of our induction a little over two weeks ago. We go - feeling satisfied that we helped many pilgrims along their way (around 160 over the time), in the spirit of this translated note. Not all was sweetness and light. This pilgrim for example decided to start cooking and then eating after 10pm lights out. Thankfully such ‘Me first and gimme gimme’ self centredness was rare. David stayed on duty until he had finished. Another pilgrim experienced separation anxiety one night and asked to sleep with his bicycle. Cyclists are such a joy sometimes. Other pilgrims go about their Camino quietly and artistically- painting  And singing and playing  The last night was the busiest. Still we found time to enjoy the cooling evening  Next morning it was time to leav...

‘It’s just a jump to the left, then a step to the right’. Life in Villadangos is simultaneously surprising and routine, and quite insulated like stepping into a time warp. I like it. There’s the laundry and folding sheets routine.  There’s the setting up for breakfast routine. And every so often, the need and opportunity to go to Leon for supplies and a little sightseeing. The cathedral is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. Leon has that delightful combination of the monumental and the boutique. This art gallery specialises in fine sketches.  Down the street, there is plaza with a medieval church and a contemporary restaurant. Let’s do the time warp again! The challenge with the morning bus trips into Leon is getting back for opening time at 2pm. That is the routine. Every group is the same in a pilgrim sort of way; and every group is surprising with different individuals and their stories. Their feedback is (mostly) heart warming, even from those with peculiar sign...