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Sarria to Portomarin - Joining the herd!

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‘The heat was hot [well derr America 🙄],  the ground was dry and the air was full of sound.’ That pretty much describes the walk from Sarria to Portomarin.. Despite the challenges, it felt good to join the herd, and especially satisfying to arrive. I had a salad with fruit and Albariño at an Elvis-themed restaurant overlooking the lake. The overriding impression  is ‘people on the move’ - school students (lots of them), single people of all ages, couples, walkers with day packs - and cyclists (aka MAMILs - middle aged men in Lycra, they are almost always males - I may/may not do a separate post about this peculiar peregrino sub genre). Back to morning in Sarria, I found the way beneath my feet. and pondered about peregrino friends travelling between destinations on fast and regular trains to and from the Camino. People on the move . . . Passing donativo stalls and awe inspiring oak trees  This is a horreo - an iconic Galician (and Asturian)  farm store designed to k...
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O’Cebreiro to Sarria - Faraway trees & greenery

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Walking from O’Cebreiro to Sarria via Tricastela was a joy - two days of greenery, shaded paths when needed, and not too steep or hot. A cool quiet early morning departure from O’Cebreiro. With misty valleys in clouds  A little more climbing - thankfully no headwinds. I am dreaming again. Villages and hamlets dot the route - in various states of repair. Welcome shade when you need it. No bull! Fortunately I got rid of my red T-shirt years ago. More greenery and before long, I arrived in Tricastela. Overnight in a new hotel - kindly offered at a pilgrim Albergue rate. Thankyou! Next morning, onwards to Sarria. Not really a designer fashion outfit but functional all the same. Signs of the Camino abound. And so does the spirit. I came across this friendly home offering a donativo breakfast. Sancho and I felt right at home. Run by volunteers! Good people - like friends I know. Entering Sarria, there is a mural honouring the fellow who initiated the painting of yellow arrows that guide ...
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Las Herrerias to O’Cebreiro - Magic ascending

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With every uphill step, closer to Galicia and O’Cebreiro, the isolated Celtic village, the high point between here and Santiago. The climb is worth it. Goodbye Las Herrerias! The morning was cool and clear with some roadside inclines,  and shaded paths. Then things got rocky - sticks out, ‘head down Mike!’ ‘Look behind you!’   Every now and then, it was good to take a photo op from passers-by. After a couple of hours, higher and higher . . .  Then Galicia! With music filtering through the forest, definitely sweeter than the aroma of local farm life.  O’Cebreiro was around the corner. I stopped into a church - I’d passed along the way,  years ago. and lit a candle - for family and friends. I gave the tacky souvenir shops a miss. Ordered coffee and Tarta Santiago. . .  and enjoyed the view. O’Cebreiro is a place to pause - so I have - overnight. More than worth the climb.  Architecture from another time. Unchanged - when the buses and the tourists are go...
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