Travels to the Edge

The  Norte is full of surprises.   I made it to the beach at Gijon  and then I checked into an ‘AI controlled albergue’.  Yes that’s right - not a hospitalero/a in sight - just me,  my phone and a robot God knows where. I checked in while I was at the second floor  ‘reception’. Every 30 seconds the light went out - which just added to the serenity - and then I got the access code via email- I even had to stamp my credencial myself 🙄. Hey but what about this view! Lots of ascents and descents today. And tranquil scenes. And points of decision. I chose to continue on the Norte rather than divert to Oviedo and start the Camino Primitivo. Glad I did - as far as I know they don’t have that much AI on the Primitivo. Or as many apples. I tried one (‘um it had fallen right at my feet senor’). It was crisp but a little tart - probably terrific for cider though. A snake even crossed my path.I think it was injured - maybe run over by a cyclist- felt sorry for the snake - not the cyclist (grrrr).

I didn’t intend to end up at Villaviciosa this evening but that’s what happened - and I feel so good about it. I missed the turn to my intended destination and when I checked the apps (yes multiple ones 🤓) I realised the best thing was to simply press on to where the accommodation was (that is Villaviciosa).  Plus, it was getting dark - on Halloween 🎃- what could possibly go wrong? To keep my spirits high I hummed to myself ‘I’m on the road to nowhere- ha ha’. . . and sure enough- I got there or here - not sure.. Ages ago I left Ribadesella. Totally unaware how today would unfold. And I headed to the beach as dawn broke Then turned left towards the forested hillsides and the hinterland villages and hamlets.  Wow - there it was.  I knew I was heading west in northern Spain. These structures, called horreos, usually adjoin country homes and are used to keep important foodstuffs like chocolate and Rioja wines away from peregrinos, Apparently they can also  be used to preserve and prote

Everyone has a reason for walking the Camino, although for some it’s hard to explain. But not these women-Corrine and Carola are sisters from Belgium. I met them a few days ago and our paths have been crossing.  Corrine recently lost a son unexpectedly . While he wasn’t on the Camino at the time , he had loved his walk to Guemes (a town on the Norte about four days back) and her son had planned to walk to Santiago and the ocean on his next stage. Corrine and Carola are being carried by his spirit- they started from Guemes and will  carry  his ashes to the ocean over coming weeks. Reason to walk  Some days just unfold- that’s it. You have no control really. Normal morning routine - finding an open bar for breakfast- then maybe the path goes by the ocean. Random - that’s Rene. Then the ocean came back. Being Sunday - ‘I stopped into a church I passed along the Way! I was Asturias Dreaming - but not all the leaves are brown - yet! And then I took my direction from rocks on the sand. Made

The coastal walk into Asturias today was extraordinary. The ocean swell was at least 4m and crashing into the limestone cliffs with thunderous intent - every wave etching away at the rocks and the numerous blowholes in an area known as Bufones de Arenillas. Never experienced anything like it. Crossed from Cantabria to Asturias in the early light and walked up wooded lanes covered with fallen chestnuts  I walked with Rene a Chilean man who lives in Seville and works for the European Commission on policy related to AI and implications for education- we shared some insights and biases too. Time passed quickly- then the ocean re-emerged . . . Big time! Sometimes it’s better to just put the phone away - ‘You’ll never capture that grandeur, Mike - why try’. I felt like that a lot but gave it a go anyway. With a little help from my friends . . .  Although the  donkey seemed unperturbed- ‘see it everyday senor’ Can’t visit Asturias without having cider. These days they have contraptions to put