Travels to the Edge

‘The sun also rises’ - Hemingway’s main character in this book, Jake Barnes put it so well: ‘You can’t get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.’ This walk proved it. It had everything, and at the end, I was still beside myself - relieved, somewhat exhausted, satisfied and even joyful. The initial path from Portugalete was paved with tar and cement, freeway vistas and to my bewilderment, a tribute to cyclists. At least the route was reasonably flat and I made good progress. Other peregrinos appeared - a school group with a guiding teacher. I reached the beach at La Arena and felt I was back on the Camino del Norte. The coastal vistas are inspiring - I glimpsed Castro Urdiales in the distance. There is a donkey on the cliff edge - oceanside!  And around the corner, two cows in close conversation - ‘Come on Thelma, let’s jump . . No Louise …Why not? … I can’t swim’. Just like Butch and Sundance. Enter at your own risk!  I did, and emerged to this. Which way to ...

Bilbao came alive last night! Thousands packed the central park to support Spain in the World Cup Final against one of its former colonies ‘ Don’t cry for me Argentina’  that’s for sure. Everyone - well except for the small minority of brave Argentine expats and rogue bands Basque separatists -  had an absolute ball, me included! Later in the local bar next to my hostel, I met a bunch of new best friends from all over the world - I faked it big time -  about my appreciation of the  nuances of red and yellow cards held aloft like performance scores in a Shakespearean tragedy where actors reel in agony at the mere prospect of being interfered with. Thankfully everyone went home, joyful. My day started much earlier - Departing Ireland and landing back in Spain. It felt good to be back in Iberia. Customs were friendly and the airport bus was free. Locals queued at liquor outlets for the night ahead. I went on a pre-game excursion in search of a wine bar. On the way I pas...