Portugalete to Castro Urdiales - Rapture, rigours and relaxation

‘The sun also rises’ - Hemingway’s main character in this book, Jake Barnes put it so well: ‘You can’t get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.’ This walk proved it. It had everything, and at the end, I was still beside myself - relieved, somewhat exhausted, satisfied and even joyful.

The initial path from Portugalete was paved with tar and cement, freeway vistas and to my bewilderment, a tribute to cyclists.

At least the route was reasonably flat and I made good progress.

Other peregrinos appeared - a school group with a guiding teacher.

I reached the beach at La Arena and felt I was back on the Camino del Norte.

The coastal vistas are inspiring - I glimpsed Castro Urdiales in the distance.

There is a donkey on the cliff edge - oceanside! 

And around the corner, two cows in close conversation - ‘Come on Thelma, let’s jump . . No Louise …Why not? … I can’t swim’. Just like Butch and Sundance.

Enter at your own risk! 

I did, and emerged to this.

Which way to go?

Easy choice! I am not strictly traditional.

The shorter coastal route was the way to go - and it passed by Mo’s Tavern.

 Then city outskirts bleak scenes returned.

That’s ok - not long now- or so I thought . . . 

I was closing in on my accommodation. 

Except there was no Albergue - with cabins, restaurant and pool- just this block of flats! 

After walking all day in warm to hot weather, this was not ideal. Using a combination of Spanglish and sign language, I was assisted by helpful locals and eventually found the right Albergue- another 20 minutes - up hill. 

After writing a carefully worded constructive message to Booking.com, I had a relaxing dip and enjoyed the view.

Reception were grateful for letting them know-and admitted they knew of the problem. Wonderful, then please fix it!

I was relieved to arrive- I was ok - I had not been scammed. And the special Plato Peregrino was delicious.

I settled in, and watched evening fall.

Time for a break. It had been a long day. I decided to stay another night.

The sunrise  was magical - so were the ancient buildings in the old city, with its safe harbour since Roman times.

 With quayside bars . . .

And relaxing beaches.

I had several swims in between meanderings.

The Sun Also Rises. I was still with myself. The cycle of life on the Camino keeps turning, and I with it.