‘Silencio por favor’ was the recurrent reminder to peregrinos and touregrinos in preparation for midday mass.
Arrangements were in place - people queued for the crypt where the credulous believe Santiago’s bones lie, while ropes hung to the side ready to swing the botafumeiro - an enormous incense burner designed to fumigate pilgrims from disease and rogue cyclists.
God must have a sense of humour. Yesterday in response to my pleas to build understanding, a plague (a collective noun) of cyclists infested the Plaza do Obradoiro.
The divide was stark! Arriving pilgrims on one side coming to terms with their Camino, and race conditioned cyclists on the other, comparing carbon fibre tensile strength and Lycra thread counts. Around lunchtime, the plaza and surrounding streets and laneways cleared.
Pilgrims could spread out and take pictures and visit the pilgrim office. I enjoyed the best ensalada mixta.
Later I visited the Arume music bar. What you read is what you get - and what you don’t.
It is a fabulous venue, with the most welcoming atmosphere and host.
Afterwards I sauntered off to the Seminario Menor, closed the door and went to sleep.
Part one - unwinding- finalizado!
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