Portomarin to Palas de Rei - Bed race logistics

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Reality sets in - there are pilgrims everywhere. ‘Mike, it is time to adapt. . .’ First, get going early to avoid the herd - and the heat.


They went right so I went left - lakeside!


Serenity for a while.

The alternative routes merged too soon. 

Still there are moments of inspiration - I have passed these friends several times over the past few days. We smile and bid each other’Buen Camino’

When surrounded by hundreds of pilgrims, ahead - behind - beside, one’s thoughts inevitably turn to accommodation. Sure there are more places these days but that is little comfort at the end of a long hot walk when you are told ‘sorry we are full’. This has happened to me several times over the last few days.

Yesterday, I got the last bed in this Albergue - a top
bunk on the top floor (the stairs felt like the final assault on Everest with no Sherpa).

Things must change Mike. Book ahead! So I have - All the way to Santiago and then some. Not so much freewheeling. But on balance, it’s worth it for peace of mind.

Now let’s consider Galician bathrooms. How does one have a proper shower in a confined space where there is little or no opportunity to hang stuff or even turn sideways - when you need to keep one hand on the water button and wave your other arm to stop the light from going out. 

At least the water is hot most of the time, even if the shower nozzle sprays water everywhere except where you would like it to go. 

Always look on the bright side life. This Hospitalero is a legend. I watched him juggle all sorts of variables today. He’s the one who found me the bed when everything was booked out.

I shared my lunch with a floor covered with cases of people yet to arrive. - a prepackaged salad standby from the local supermarket.

This sign makes sense. Supermarket aisles are narrow, very narrow. Most pilgrims comply and leave their packs at the door; Unfortunately, that blocks the entrance. On the other hand those that don’t comply because they think their day pack is fine, shuffle sideways knocking bottles of water and packets of Pringles to the floor. 

Sorry this post is sounding like a bit of a whinge. Time to leave the herd and get with the locals.

Last night there was music and dancing at the bar across the street- Clarinets Bagpipes drums and other percussion.

It was on for young and old.

I loved it and so did the parents families and friends who were there. 

This is real community. . . 

Then a thunderstorm arrived- and the barrio party moved inside.

On the bright side, it will be cooler tomorrow, even if I have to wear my hobbit coverall raincoat.

I am leaving Palas de Rei now bound for Arzua. It looks like there is more rain on the way.😊

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