Travels to the Edge

This is a coastal walk, and here comes the sand. Fatefully it was my last close encounter - thereafter it was mainly roadside - a challenge especially with the heat and the distance. There was no simple alternative. I had to make it to Redondela. I did. Yesterday’s crowded beach is a happy memory - stillness now in the predawn. Looking back to Patos - I was making progress.  Down the steps to the sand- the yellow arrows do not lie - l savoured every foot print.  A brief ramble through forest - followed by urban sprawl. Pavement treading. I stopped at a roadside fruit and vegetable shop, and had an orange, an apricot and a banana- no photo- just think bleak! After several hours I reached Vigo. I  sat eating a chicken kebab and drinking a small bottle of coke on a stone bench above the ancient port, being remodelled. Vigo as a Galician port city has style. Somewhat deserted now (with siesta) - though the reputable bars and restaurants were busy with family and friends, and ...

This is a coastal walk, and here comes the sand. Fatefully it was my last close encounter - thereafter it was mainly roadside - a challenge especially with the heat and the distance. There was no simple alternative. I had to make it to Redondela. 

A coastal resort town on a Sunday - what’s not to love about a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Tonight I am staying in a beachside hostel in Patos - six days in and just over half way, with people from Germany, Romania, and a Russian expat. Galician mist greeted me as I departed. The path was flat and the atmosphere was mystical . . . with a rainbow trying to break through. A right turn up the hill and into the forest. A truism of the Camino is that climbs always provide better views . . . always. Reaching the ridge was welcome even though it was rocky. Hello, I’m Mr. Ed.- I met a very chilled horse who likes  company.  I think I did okay.’Wilbur- who was that?’ That was a bloke with no name. Time for breakfast - a couple of hours in! Approaching midday local beaches were filling and I figured it was time for a swim.Bliss - cool and refreshing.  Back on the path, I crossed a medieval bridge - with foot traffic refuges to keep pedestrians safe from marauding carriage...

So many songs about boat trips and river crossings: ‘Catch a boat to England baby … maybe to Spain’ Well,  I did this morning- thanks for the inspiration Nick Drake and Paul Simon. And, oops, I did pay the ferryman before he got me to the other side. 🥹 Today I waved goodbye to Portugal and said hola to Galicia, Spain. Portugal was fabulous and Spain is always special. Everyone shuffled out quietly- I was almost the last. The morning light was beautiful filtering through the quiet streets leading to river Then I met Olive Oil!  Popeye was waiting at the dock. What a couple! Ready for launch and we were away … The ferryman got me to the other side, and we waved goodbye (though I think Olive saluted - obviously too much spinach 😉)  Stepping into Spain, I smiled and walked up the hill. This is Galicia alright! Moments later I walked through a Saturday morning market.  I dropped by the supermarket for breakfast and lunch supplies, and headed out of town paying my respec...

After almost a week and over a hundred kilometres, everybody is challenged in some way- but you would not know it from our dinner table vibe. Only ‘one on one’  picks up on that. Tonight we shared soul food and music and laughter, and supported one another.  For me, the day was long, very long at times. What began in predawn -  as inner city street walking and screen checking to find ways out of town,   transformed into several hours of ocean side walking and watching the North Atlantic waves crest and break.  Pilgrims from everywhere and nowhere were already on the path. It was a joy to meet to two inspiring women from Ukraine. They are filming a documentary of their Camino experience. We chatted and recorded conversations about lots of aspects of Camino life. A stop for morning tea after three hours was welcome. The landscape varied a little- at times the path went inland. I had been walking slowly and to make up time, did some roadside walking. This took me p...