Ourense to Oseira - Pilgrims and monasteries

As pilgrims we spend a lot of time alone. Perhaps those who live in monasteries do also. What does time alone count for? Why does it matter? Are pilgrims and monks one and the same? I am in the Cistercian monastery at Oseira and have had the opportunity to attend vespers (a type of evening prayer service with singing).
I looked forward to visiting Oseira as I left Ourense. The plaza major had a totally different atmosphere to when we had drinks last night.

I have not seen one of these since Valencia - my mind spun back to my first walking day around six weeks ago. 

Downtown Ourense was lined with top end retail including a Gaudi style building home to local radio.

Walking alone, I crossed the medieval bridge.
Looked down the river in the early morning, 
and began the long ascent out of the valley, leaving Oursense behind and below.

I was soon surrounded in Galician green.
And unusually vivid flower colours.
One moment I had been waiting for, was passing the ‘100kms to Santiago’ stone marker- woohoo!
Yes these are eucalyptus trees imported from Australia decades ago - lots of debate whether it was a wise decision (debate for another time).
More Galician green . . .

and several trees that were used as extras in the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy.
The turnoff to the monastery meant an extra 7kms or so to Santiago - more than worth it.
The afternoon walk was mostly green and shady - very welcome.
The Cistercian monastery dating from the 11th century came into view.

The scale of the place is what I noticed- it is enormous.

. . . and in need of tender loving care.
The alberggue is next door- it is new, built during Covid when there were no pilgrims.
After the laundry was done, it was off to Vespers.

Myself and three others were taken through the cloister.
and up the stairs . . .
to the chapel - choir.
There were 10 monks - some younger some older- some with masks 

and some without.
During the service, no one smiled, there was no harmony- and I felt a certain sadness and unease about what these men actually do. Cistercians are a contemplative order. I was told only one of ten (who live in this enormous residence) gets out much.

As a pilgrim I contemplate all kinds of things every day, while I walk from A to B. Am I the same as these blokes? What is the purpose of my walk? Of their cloistered life? How do I make my Camino count for something? Does it need to? What is faith without action? 

So many questions. . . I was fortunate to be able to experience this ritual. It brought these questions to mind.

I wondered how this fellow feels day to day, as he passed us without the slightest greeting or recognition of our presence.

Our lives need to count for something - but who are we to judge. I aim to make this Camino count for something- otherwise it is merely an indulgence (and certainly not a plenary one).

Here endeth the lesson- ciao everyone 😊