Avila- Fortress Church and Mystic


Today I walked Avila streets and fortress walls - perhaps at times in the footsteps of ‘La Santa’, Teresa of Avila. The saint and the city are inseparable, at least to me.
No - I am not staying at the Parador. I am in the shadowy place on the right just up the road. Slow relaxing start this morning - then I was out and about.There were places I wanted to visit - first stop, the city wall.
Most of  the wall dates from the 11th and 12th century. Some stones in lower layers were recycled from Roman times - those with holes: one to fix posts, the other to hold funeral remains.
A major section of the city wall doubles as a wall for the cathedral - church and state were one and the same then. As I walked along the top of the battlements, I wondered what on earth was the reason for this massive construction?  Defence?  Against who?  Paranoia or ego?
The Cathedral interior featured stained glass, and granite (from not too far away judging from yesterday).
And an intricately carved altarpiece. 
Later, I visited the site of the childhood home of Teresa of Avila, where her museum now stands.
An extraordinary woman, A 16th century mystic who wanted change in the church at a time when the New World was opening up and the Reformation was underway. She was opposed by the Spanish Inquisition but not charged - No one would have expected that!
She wrote and published widely, including about the stages of ascent of the soul from prayer and meditation to silence, and on to ecstasy. My walk yesterday (by the way) went in a totally opposite direction.
In this 17th century oil painting, Teresa and her nuns are wandering beyond time and space - like pilgrims perhaps?
I am happy to have spent today in Avila. 

Comments

  1. I appreciate your reflections, thanks Mike. Santa Theresa's birth home, I discovered, is in Gotarrendura, the next town on the Camino. It's a pretty humble place compared with Avíla. Buen Camino, Neils

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  2. I visited Avila in 1985. Drove in! Beautiful town. Good you had a day off the road

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