Albacete to La Roda - Never over think or under plan


I have never had a Camino day quite like this. Distance, weather, uncertainty about path and end point, and where I would find somewhere to sleep when I got there - wherever’there’ was.
Predawn departure through the streets of Albacete past children’s playgrounds.

And reminders of Cervantes.  I was walking the same country.
As the sun rose, the morning cool faded.
Dogs on chains were excited to see me, I think- mostly they are just lonely.
Soon I was walking in the La  Mancha plains again, and I could feel the solitude.
The flat path stretched to the horizon,
But I was not alone. I saw a snake basking only a metre or two ahead of me. It quickly disappeared back to the wheat field. I came across farmers organising irrigation for their crops.
I did not expect to be walking through mud,
or have truck drivers beep and wave at me as I splashed through. The terrain was flat and the paths were straight - if you made a wrong turn, you could walk kilometres out of your way.  So far so good.
Today the temperature was expected to reach the low 30s and the distance to the first town, La Gineta, was 20 km -halfway on the official stage. I thought I might stay there if the temperature felt to too hot.

It was around midday when I reached the outskirts of La Gineta. To be honest it was really hard to decide whether to go on. There was nowhere to stay. 
The town hall and the police station were closed and the bar owner in the main street simply waved his hands at me when I asked about accommodation.. 
The thought of walking a further 20 kms in the heat to La Roda was a worry. What do I do? I stocked up on water, had a good lunch and decided to walk on. Adios La Gineta!
I walked at a slow steady pace trying not to think about the heat and my feet. I wondered about the neighbours who once lived in these houses on opposite sides of the path and how they knew each other.

And

I was almost halfway when I came across an oasis- I stood under crop sprinklers for minutes. It was magical and came at the right time, thanks Mum!

Not long after that, I started to worry about what the apps were saying. I was off track and they were not  picking up my movements.
The yellow arrows had disappeared. I knew the direction I needed to go. I hoped this was the right one. Google Maps came to the rescue - ‘proceed to the route and walk over the bridge’  What bridge?  I kept walking. I came to a wide path. It was on the Google Map- relief! I stopped in the shade knowing I was back on track. Sancho simply sat there analysing the situation. 
Just as I (we) started to walk the last 6 kms, a local stopped and confirmed. ‘Yes that’s where you need to go.’

Slow and steady. I made it to La Roda just as my water was running out. Never enjoyed splashing and drinking water from a town water fountain so much.

When I reached the city centre, there was a procession going on. The town was celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi. Police were sectioning off the road. I approached a policeman and asked about accommodation. He guided me to where it was. He rang ahead and sent me on my way. Spanish police are the best. (Sorry, no photos of the procsession or police - too tired)
Really- tonight I’m staying in a bull  ring? Paco was there to meet me.

He checked me in and gave me the key. The albergue is the changing room for the matadors. How’s the view from the door?

If there ever was a quixotic moment, this was it!
I showered and dressed and made my way to the ring.

Then it was time for dinner.

Never thought the day would play out like this. Maybe I should’ve done more planning. A day I’ll never forget.

Comments

  1. What a day, what a pilgrim!! On ya Miguel. Says the Don: 'It’s up to brave hearts, sir, to be patient when things are going badly, as well as being happy when they’re going well.' Buen Camino brave Quixote, Neils

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  2. What an awesome albergue! Absolute classic. Another day conquered!

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  3. My word such an adventure Mike. Big hello from Asheville North Carolina. Very quaint mountain town. The Mac’s.

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  4. 40km? My goodness. Legend!

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