Travels to the Edge

Sustenance via a ‘donativo’ stall - cola, banana, croissant, watermelon, and coffee (already gone) - when I needed it. The Camino comes through once more!  It had been a tough climb - nothing like I had expected from the serene seaside morning . . .  and quiet boardwalk. Changes began when the path turned right - away from the ocean. Pilgrims started to check their feet. I realised it was time for breakfast (not Portuguese Tart again 🙄) The path led to the hills above the coastline, to monuments and churches with medieval artefacts. Outside locals were commuting, inside silence. Back on the street children smiled, waved and wished me and other walkers a ‘bom Caminho’ Priceless! The climb continued past stately houses with Camino connections  To the forest and woodland green  A different path- one that undulates with random rocks and other obstacles and descending the valley to the crossing. Then up again  More rock hopping in dappled sunlight  And then . ....

You are kidding! A goat followed me today appearing out of nowhere but seeming well-versed in pilgrim protocol.. After several kilometres, I said ‘okay it’s time to go our separate ways’ and we did!  Another surprise overlooked in my last post was the representation of my archangel namesake in yesterday’s procession.  The young man playing my patron saint appeared to be a combination of a Roman Centurion and a fairy Princess. Not sure how I feel about that though I do appreciate that San Miguel is seen as a positive and strong saintly and cultural presence in Spain and Portugal. Nearly everyone in the dormitory had cleared out by the time I woke up this morning so I wandered off alone in search of breakfast - I made my way along quiet streets watching people start their day Overhanging decorations are reminders of the way these streets come alive for locals. The beaches were being prepared for visitors - not too many yet but numbers build over the summer. On my first stop at a...

Walking by the Atlantic, in mild temperatures and still air, was an ideal start for taking on the longer stages of Camino Portuguese. I started early, trying my best not to disturb albergue companions who had only just come back from the solstice festivities. Imagine that! I walked through the inner city past groups of tired happy people still out there at 6 am. Not a sign of any antisocial stuff - fabulous! Reflective of the night that was Pavement symbols reminded me that I was on the path - albeit heading in the wrong direction! I wanted to begin near the cathedral down by the riverside. The Duoro river looked majestic in early morning. I followed the path to where the river meets The Atlantic. Moments later, I was walking by the breakers. It was so quiet. No-one. No open shops, no stalls, no distractions  Solitude was welcome, until I realised I hadn’t had any breakfast. Some time later, I found an open cafe.   This was fine but I was hoping for a Portuguese tart! Then mor...