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Higueruela to Chinchilla- Surprise and Solitude

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Never did I think that I would be playing guitar around the fire at a Casa Rural last night. I was out buying bananas and other groceries when I met Bob from the Netherlands. He asked whether I would like to come and stay at his place just out of town. He had already spoken to Theresa - the pilgrim from Montreal who I met during the day. He invited her as well. Since the local albergue was ordinary (very ordinary in fact), we accepted the invitation and shortly after arrived here. Theresa knew it was my birthday - I had mentioned it as I passed her when she was sitting under a tree. Unbeknown to me, she and Bob bought extra groceries for a birthday dinner - how lovely. After dinner we chatted and played music around the fire- such a wonderful surprise- a Camino episode that will live in my memory. This morning Bob drove me to town and I was back on the way, solo once more. I hacked through some undergrowth at one point. Don’t laugh - it was a welcome change of terrain. And I waved to a...

Almansa to Higueruela - My Chivalrous Birthday Walk

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Here is Sancho Panza  toasting Knight Mike on his birthday. . Together we fought the unbeatable foe and arrived safely and honourably at the La Posada Hotel. Mike had never had a birthday quite like this. Our quest began before dawn  Striding through morning mists And taking calls from loved ones The path was long today - and I focused on small details at my feet  The late spring colours of wild flowers. I felt the rocks through my boots - thankfully this surface did not last. The cool overcast morning in the hills  made way for a warm sunny afternoon on the high plains. With time to think and look for shade - I took shorter occasional breaks and managed my water My last hours of walking were spent on roadside bitumen - it was tough. I was focused on getting there  And I (oops Sancho and I) eventually did  Today was a birthday to remember- that’s for sure Quixotic? It had its moments. Your wishes and support mean a lot- thanks everyone x

La Font de La Figuera to Almansa - Time for chivalry

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Chivalry is not dead - It is alive and well and historic here in Castile- La Mancha. Today I crossed the border from València to a land steeped in legend and literature. Back in 1605, Miguel (Mike) de Cervantes wrote about this region in his novel ‘Don Quixote de la Mancha’ Reading accounts of  life and occasional chivalrous acts on the Camino Levante inspired me to walk it - am I delusional?  Probably - this is a crazy walk for anyone to do- but I hope I can bring about something better, that is real and lasting, for family, friends and locals.  I have no Sancho Panza to keep me grounded- but  this morning I had the most amazing helpful support from the hospitalera at the Hostal Amable to ring ahead and prepare a wonderful breakfast. This place is the best.  All day I was by myself - no hamlets or villages- just the road . . . and the  occasional farm house . . .  and the open sky.  Cyclists were out - it was Sunday- we exchanged Buenos Dias gree...

Moixent to La Font de La Figuera: Solo and supported

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Travelling alone has its moments. Sometimes you just go for it. Sometimes you need help.  Last night in Moixent, I went up to the Plaza Major to find dinner. Both bars were filling fast - bar staff flying in all directions. I sat at an outside table for a while - no one came near me. I felt out of place amidst all the laughing and conversation. So I decided to go inside and sit at the bar and try out some Spanish. It turned out well. I ordered this without speaking any English or using much sign language. Some of the locals came over and asked questions and gave advice (I think?) about the Camino de Levante. The busy bar staff smiled too. And to think I could have gone back to the police station via the supermarket and had a dinner for one.  A relatively early start for a walk that would be the shortest and the steepest so far. As the road climbed, the vista got better. Then I went real hill climbing for a while, and met an Italian couple (not peregrinos) on their Saturday mor...