Travels to the Edge

We walk the Camino in our own way. We walk alone. We walk together. Sometimes we need someone to walk beside us - to help us, hold us on our way. Early morning leaving Pontevedra - pilgrim silhouettes The albergues were being vacated, hiking boots and poles tapped the pavements out of town. To the forest above - pairs, solos, small groups who had their luggage carried forward, and pilgrims who needed someone to walk with them The path was like a river, flowing with pilgrims. After 10kms I found a bar with space to have breakfast. The one before was bedlam albeit happy and chatty! By the time I finished, there was a lineup at the bar. How different this Camino is. Bar owners know when the herd is approaching. It is worth taking time to look- so many are walking for the first time. Almost everyone has a smile, and a Buen Camino, and a Buenos Dias - the spirit of Camino reinvents itself perpetually. I love that! And they grow corn and grapes here too! There are moments (strangely) when yo...

That’s Francisco! He plays the pipes so beautifully and let me join in. We created a Camino flash mob! Phones came out, people laughed, we laughed- and then we moved on. Farewell to A Casa da Herba Hostel. I shared the dormitory with an Irishman, and a Spanish father and young daughter - I thought what a fabulous experience for both- inspiring for me - so my daughters and son and grand daughter and grandsons, Dad/Grandad is totally on board if you want to do a Camino sometime. Horreos typify the landscape of north west Spain. You know where you are when you see one - symbols of utility and grace and emotion! Shady green paths, narled tree limbs . . . And pilgrim sisters! She passed me in a flash - no way I (or Jake or Elwood) could keep up, she was on a mission from God. Breakfast happened at exactly the right time. Steady stream of pilgrims passed by- some I know, most I don't. There were lots of them. Hmmm should I book ahead? No way Mike, wing it! The way from here is busy becau...

This is a coastal walk, and here comes the sand. Fatefully it was my last close encounter - thereafter it was mainly roadside - a challenge especially with the heat and the distance. There was no simple alternative. I had to make it to Redondela. I did. Yesterday’s crowded beach is a happy memory - stillness now in the predawn. Looking back to Patos - I was making progress.  Down the steps to the sand- the yellow arrows do not lie - l savoured every foot print.  A brief ramble through forest - followed by urban sprawl. Pavement treading. I stopped at a roadside fruit and vegetable shop, and had an orange, an apricot and a banana- no photo- just think bleak! After several hours I reached Vigo. I  sat eating a chicken kebab and drinking a small bottle of coke on a stone bench above the ancient port, being remodelled. Vigo as a Galician port city has style. Somewhat deserted now (with siesta) - though the reputable bars and restaurants were busy with family and friends, and ...

A coastal resort town on a Sunday - what’s not to love about a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Tonight I am staying in a beachside hostel in Patos - six days in and just over half way, with people from Germany, Romania, and a Russian expat. Galician mist greeted me as I departed. The path was flat and the atmosphere was mystical . . . with a rainbow trying to break through. A right turn up the hill and into the forest. A truism of the Camino is that climbs always provide better views . . . always. Reaching the ridge was welcome even though it was rocky. Hello, I’m Mr. Ed.- I met a very chilled horse who likes  company.  I think I did okay.’Wilbur- who was that?’ That was a bloke with no name. Time for breakfast - a couple of hours in! Approaching midday local beaches were filling and I figured it was time for a swim.Bliss - cool and refreshing.  Back on the path, I crossed a medieval bridge - with foot traffic refuges to keep pedestrians safe from marauding carriage...